Ca Del Sole (8/10)
Dining in
Always a bit mysterious behind high walls, Ca’ del Sole, Rodofo Costella’s authentic Venetian country inn and 17 year-old mainstay in
And oh, what is inside the walls! Rustic and spacious, the grounds are so generous space it could only be in the valley. It is possibly the most Italian dining experience outside
Perky pots of geraniums meet the eye on the beached out mustard color walls. Look up and flame and purple and coral-color bougainvillea peek out through tall palm trees and green bushes with scattered mini white twinkle lights bunched together like grapes. Brick groundwork. New cabanas with white cloth fluttering down or tied back lend a rustic private but festive air. Even the round tables are a pleasure, an invitation for everyone to see and share with each other.
Our server Jorge, has been with Costella from pre-Ca’ del Sole days when they both were at the legendary Chianti. He and other servers move with effortless efficiency through the place. It takes only a look up before one comes over to attend to a table’s need. This is Italian service.
German-born, French-trained Executive Chef Soerke Peters has worked all over Europe, winning awards, before coming to America where he was immediately snapped up by famed northern Italian restaurateur Pino Luongo for Coco Pazzo in New York. Lucky for us, Chef Peters loved our Mediterranean climate and moved here. He also loves the local sources that are perfect for “the simplicity and careful approach to ingredients in Italian cooking.”
Costella’s complements this thought by “providing good value, along with consistent food quality.” “The Deal” on the Speciali menu. Three Courses for $26 or Four Courses for $33, and wines are suggested with each generous dish. Dishes are also available individually. There is also a novel wine menu listing inexpensive but substantial tasting portions, in addition to wines by the glass and bottle so we could sample both a white and red.
We chose the Flori di Zucca for our first course,, crispy,. flash—fried zucchini flowers, crusted to retain their sunny color, filled with ricotta, on a generous bed of heirloom tomatoes with basil strips ($10 as compared to another trendy restaurant’s price of $23).
For our second course, Carbonara Spaghetti ($12) crispy pancetta, egg yolk, parmesan, parsley, black pepper was the familiar “bacon and eggs” on pasta but still, northern style, was light. This would actually have made a small meal but the Costolette di Manzo ($20) was too tempting, Braised beef short ribs that could indeed be cut with a fork, as Jorge had promised with mashed potatoes and baby carrots. Dessert was Uva & Grappa ($7), Fresh grapes, grape sorbet and grappa, for a refreshing and unique finish.
We tried two other traditional dishes from the menu. The slices of Salumeria ($11) is laid out like a picture on a plate. On it are House-made salami, mortadella, , bresaola, Pio Tosini prosciutto (made elsewhere and aged 24 months), a slab of duck liver pâté a little pot of three-grain mustard and fat olives. The traditional grilled meat plate ($22) is a meat-lover’s dream with grilled lamb chop, chicken leg, beef and vegetables.
Other dishes caught our eye as they paraded toward other tables: the regal Salmone Baked organic king salmon ($18) and a sumptuous roasted Acorn squash, asparagus, leeks and the mezzelune pumpkin ravioli, with butter, sage and parmesan cheese.
We passed through the main dining rooms on the way out with crisp linen tablecloths on large tables under indirect, flattering lighting for plain old-fashioned luxury. And were tempted to stop in the cozy little bar/cocktail lounge near the front door to finish the evening with one of the Armanac’s in the case outside.
Note: – For a special experience, the first annual Venetian Masquerade Ball on October 2, 2010 benefiting the Alzheimer’s Assoc. and The Academy of Television Arts & Sciences Foundation (Emmys Foundation). Tickets can be purchased on the restaurant website beginning on Sept. 1, 2010.
4100 Cahuenga Blvd,