Simon Says, and He Says It with Cabs (08/08)

 

“Simon” in this case is Executive Chef Kerry Simon of SimonLA restaurant.  In a recent wine pairing menu with Sodaro Estate Napa cabernets,  Kerry’s deceptively simple dishes with underlying complex satisfying flavors showed why he has earned an international reputation as being an innovative and respected chef creating high-style, yet basic, modern – and fun- American cuisine. 

Only the energy buzz and not the noice from the Beverly Center traffic outside transfers to the playful Sofitel patio that borders a cavernous restaurant and bar.  A slick wall waterfall and a snapping fire pit dot the cabana layout of the patio with umbrella tables and comfy communal bench seating that makes for cozy evenings under the stars or regulated shade in the daytime heat.  The crisply professional and good natured energy European management staff overseeing the hotel lends a cosmopolitan air, and there are always friendly jetsetters for company.

A bread basket with a cobalt blue napkin covering the tempting contents arrived at  the table almost as soon as we arrived filled with scones, savory cheese and onion layered squares and pretzel bread instead of more usual mundane far.  It was a portent of things to come.

The chef first presented a warm California goat cheese tart with figs and small herb salad to pair with Felicity Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 with a rich, red depth of color and the supple structure was able to handle the flavors of the strong yet light introductory course.  The cab’s dark fruit flavors of red cherry compote and plums paralleled the figs while it complemented the herb salad, and the soft, dusty overlay of sandlewood brought out the flavors of the goat cheese tart.     

Roasted pacific halibut with corn and fava bean succotash with a cabernet reduction was paired with a Felicity cabernet franc 2004.  Halibut is challenging to prepare.  While a pleasingly “meaty fish,”  its heft makes the fish a good choice to pair with a red wine.  However, because it can lacks a flavor of its own and can be bland, it becomes a blank slate for the chef.  Chef Simon immediately made the halibut alluring with a papery-thin crunchy layer on top.  This contrasted with the tender, perfectly moist flesh inside.  The small portion of fava bean succotash added a summery color and balance to the fish while the cab reduction mirrored the wine in the glass accompanying it    

 

A shallot wine sauce pulled together the flavors of the meat dish, Grilled prime culotte of beet with French filet beans and truffled potato cake.  Simon’s finesse with truffles shows his finesse with this luxurious item, as also demonstrated in his addictively delisiou his beef carpaccio wood roasted pizza with arugula, blue cheese and truffle oil.

 

For dessert, a crunchy chocolate mousse cake with passion fruit and marinated raspberries was paired with a Ramos pinto port quinta de ervamoira.   These were the best examples of Chef Simon’s  bright, bold traditional ingredients prepared with a subtle and appealing twist.    

Sodaro Estate Winery Assistant Manager, Mark Phelan was on hand to pour and fill in the story about the wines.  

 

Mark told us that the story of Sodaro began long ago in the mid- 19th century, in Vallelunga, deep in the heart of Old World Italy.   There  Guiseppe Sodaro honed his craft of cooperage, making each wine barrel by hand and serving regional wineries.  A terrible drought  in 1894 forced Sodaro out and he headed to the U.S. with his family. It was almost another century before his descendants arrived in Napa and Don Sodaro picked up family wine legacy by growing only traditional varietals of the Bordeaux in his affordable wines.

 

Napa’s harsh but not too harsh soil are perfect for making the vines must struggle” to produce interesting and appealing characteristics, reports Mark.  Five different varietals in a nine acre vineyard comprise the Sodaro Estate Vineyard.  This focus on small lot fermentation and the potential for multiple blends produces the highest quality Bordeaux blends.  

Chef Kerry may have started his culinary career tossing pizzas at the age of 15 at a Little Caesar’s in suburban Chicago but it wasn’t too long before he was creating the "perfect" omelette for Henry Kissinger’s visits to one of New York‘s most prestigious restaurant, La Cote Basque.  L.A. will appreciate the chef, unlike Roy Yamaguchi and Thomas Keller when they were in L.A..

A graduate of the prestigious Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, Simon has worked "the line" alongside some of the country’s most outstanding toques, modern-day culinary masters such as Andre Soltner of Lutece, Jean-Jacques Rachou of La Cote Basque, and Jean Georges Vongerichten of Vong and Jo Jo. , Like Vongerichten,

Simon’s cooking relies on the simplicity of lightly steamed and sauteed foods, replacing the traditional heavier basics of French cooking such as butter, cream, flour and essentially, heavy, thick sauces, with vegetable juices, vinaigrettes, flavored oils, and broths.

"By using a handful of simple sauces and broths, the diner is able to experience food’s natural,intense flavors,” he explains. “The dishes themselves, end up lighter, fresher."  Simon balances a menu of rich, seasoned foods with a selection of light, yet highly inventive, dishes. 

Simon explains that his natural style always features selections from the best, locally raised produce

 

Chef Simon’s photo with his unusual shoulder length hair is often visible in high profile national charity event coverage (he’s participated in over 150 so far) and on the food television network,  but he’s down to earth and friendly. 

 

Simon is also the best example of the benefits of his own cooking because he looks 20 years younger than his age.  Still, he’s a guy who knows how to have fun as his “junkfood” dessert stations show.  And there’s usually a dish of puffy cotton candy on everyone’s table.  You have to be as eager as a kid, with this dish, though. Otherwise the cotton candy disintegrates into a tiny puddle.

It’s easy to see why restaurants under Kerry’s direction have been named  "Best In America" by John Mariani in Esquire, and  he has been a featured guest on Television Food Network. 

SIMON LA, Sofitel Hotel, www.accorhotels.com,

8555 Beverly Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90048, (310) 358-3979