Westlake Four Seasons (6/10)
Watch for the rising star of Chef Mario Alcocer. The executive chef first wowed us at a ranch event where he had the biggest booth and the longest lines, and represented David Murdock’s Westlake Four Seasons Hotel. A beaming Mario and his pastry chef David Laufer, served endless trays of their delicate, decadent French “BLT” (strawberries, lettuce and peanut butter) chocolate macaroons.
Another afternoon when Chef Mario dined with us in the elegant lounge at the hotel, we found him to be as old-world gracious as he is elegant. Resembling matinee idol Roland Gilbert doesn’t hurt a bit.
All the while the chef quietly listed an impressive list of duties he kept an attentive ear on the noise level in the room. Alcocer oversees three restaurants, a chef’s table and private dining room, the extensive hotel catering and in-room dining and a pastry kitchen.
Yet the cordial topnotch staff is lively and in the culinary category it all “starts at the top” with wiry Chef Mario. This is the kind of guy for whom nothing seems too much to do, and he does it with a smile and with flair.
Because of the hotel’s partnership with the renowned California Health & Longevity Institute, Chef Mario works with the Director of Nutrition, Paulette Lambert, RD, CED to create health-conscious menus. He also teaches class in the enviable, sunlit Wellness Kitchen down the hall. Beams Mario,“I love this challenge.”
When asked if the program influenced him, the compact chef laughed, “I lost 25 pounds after being on the program myself!”
Every dish on the lounge and on
Packed with crab meat, the generously portioned Golden Crab Cakes are served with a tasty, filling Black Bean and Corn Ragout and Red Pepper Aioli ($19), making for lots of flavor but not what usually comprises it: calories and fat.
Laughs Mario, “we still have the basics, such as our Signature burger and popular Pink Snapper Tacos prepared with Corn Tortillas and traditional condiments, but starring a classy Achiote- marinated Pink Snapper.
An eye-popping Mediterranean Salad combines Pan Seared Striped Bass with Farro and Marinated Candy Kalamata Olives and Pickled Sweet Peppers. Mario soaks the farro for two hours and marinates it in a zesty lemon vinaigrette. Pine nuts add a crunch and completing the colorful plate is spinach, tart arugula and tomato.
In And defying the latest bizarre American culinary trend, and which opposes every healthy Michelle Obama is trying to teach in order to get the country back in shape, the collaboration between pastry chef David Laufer and Mario on their desserts prove that not only fat makes flavor.
A trio of sundaes arrives in a plexiglass stand with three tuiles holding layers of fruits, sorbet (cranberry, grape and strawberry). Punch your spoon down to mix your sorbet-fruit sundae, just sweet enough for dessert, and a delightful palate cleanser at the same time.
Our final surprise awaited our question about using local produce. Mario grinned, leading the way out the terrace door to one garden of gorgeous, thriving herbs, and then another and then into a converted orchid greenhouse overflowing with baby zucchini and more fragrant herbs!
So.hereis a chef who may have a country garden but is at heart and soul a very savvy urbanite (Mexico City), who brings a distinct culinary perspective and a joy to his job even after 20 years of Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts experience (including Los Angeles).
Turns out my bragging rights disappeared quickly enough since many of my culinary colleagues already hold community supporter Chef Mario in high esteem. As for keeping such a treasure a secret to avoid a crowd, there is plenty more to share and we can’t wait to try Chef Mario’s Saturday evening Mediterranean-inspired menu, his chef’s table and his sumptuous Sunday signature breakfast served right in the magnificent kitchen downstairs.
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