Los Angeles Dining

“Citizen Smith” Dining and Eclectic Bar/Lounge in Hollywood (5/07)

Citizen Smith- as Far a Cry from Jimmy Stewart as You can Get

Citizen Smith restaurant and lounge brings with it all the hip, funky and creative energy of the Cahuenga corridor that lived through the past century in Hollywood, stirring things up in this once staid part of town from noon just about to noon the next day.

Citizen Smith stays open until 2 AM on week-ends (Thursday through Sunday) and about the only thing missing is a brunch to this neighbor of the buzzing Hollywood Farmer’s Market that opens only a few hours after the restaurant closes. (It is in the plans).

Recent celeb spotting included Britney, Jessica, Lindsay and Quentin…. John (Mayer) Rob (Thomas), Jack (Black) and Kevin (Connolly). Mandy Moore celebrated her birthday there.

And why not? The laid back, warm energy and candlelit atmosphere is both rustic and sultry sophisticated at the same time. The staff is friendly, smart and professional beginning with the valet parkers outside who wave you in to a landing (signage is, shall we say, “suble”) when they see you peering around for an address.

Thomas Schoos’ Citizen Smith design stars his signature candlelit design to make the most of the historic high open ceilings that trails out into the alley behind with its wonderful brick walls, tall plants and leather banquette seating. Server Ian showed us how to more the heavy glass door with heavy wooden hinge – touch the spot to activate a modern laser! And there is a lot to make the “most of” inside. You could be in Morocco or in New Orleans- or both.

A mammoth mahogany bar runs the length of the dining room, with the entire room reflected in the smoked mirrors over it. And in this room, lush private booths are cushioned in back from floor to ceiling in Brazilian bull hides, patchworked into framed squares. How elegant does this make you feel? The deep booths are cozy and roomy and become private little celebratory spaces with the thoughtful addition of a wooden bench to complete each party circle. A couple of big wooden communal tables add to the party feel.

Watching over the entire scene, giant rococo chandeliers are boxed in with plexiglass printed with see-through photos of faces. Moroccan tea glasses are turned into votive candleholders mounted into fleur-de-lys sconces. Candlelight is everywhere.

When the party gets too large, at the back of Citizen Smith and down a few steps is a second bar with low tables, plenty of party space under another chandelier.

Just to get the party going, drink specials change every night. How about a “Bubbletini?” It’s made with Grey Goose, Peach Schnapps, Chambourd and champagne? Or are you in the mood for a Mohito? Pick your own “mixed poison.” The standard wine list is in the process of being revamped. Still, we loved a Robert Stemler ‘-3 Pinot Noir from Napa.

Owner Andrew Belchic makes up for the currently transitioning food and wine menus with upcoming entertainment to match the décor in the form of an evening called "Unzipped"- think MTV unplugged.

The cuisine is American comfort food with Southern accents, though the menu is currently transitioning from Louisiana-born chef Taylor Boudreaux (Maestro) into a personal statement by Executive chef Jose Luis Nolasco (whose pedigree includes several stints with Wolfgang Puck), and carried out by personable Chef de Cuisine,Johnny Zegarra. Like the rest of the staff, the cheerful chefs are happy to chat and answer questions.

All the starters are perfect for sharing – including the price. Two favorites are the Jalapeño Tuna Tartare ($18) served on a large platter with jalapeños, shallots and chives dressed with wasabi vinaigrette and served with a julienned cucumber and apple salad plus alt & pepper fingerling potato chips. The Citrus Glazed Shrimp ($18) number six and are dressed in a citrus glaze and wrapped with applewood bacon. Fried Green Tomatoes with Smoked Mozzarella ($14) alternate stacks of cornmeal crusted fried green tomatoes with smoked mozzarella gratin and tomatillo vinaigrette, served with microgreen and herb salad and aged balsamic reduction.
The staff is even happy to provide tasting bowls for the French Onion Soup ($10), made with slowly caramelized red and sweet onion deglazed with sherry, served with crostini and melted gruyere.

Braised short ribs ($38) are prepared in a citrus (lemon and orange) reduction and accompanied by soft polenta, baby bok choy and baby carrots. The four-cheese Jalapeño macaroni is comforting with a hit of the peppers. Panko Crusted Tuna ($28) is sushi grade Ahi served with chive mashed potatoes, cherry tomato and onion salad with avocado vinaigrette. The Tuna was the best dish as it was prepared perfectly!

Don’t be discouraged by the prices. Convenient for walk-ins, a lounge menu offers scaled-down selections, such as sliders, chicken skewers and jalapeno mac and cheese.
And don’t be intimidated by the sexy, high profile celeb environment, complete with velvet rope holding back the crowd on week-ends. Three floor managers run the operation smooth as silk to be sure you have a grand time. Mitch Durette, on duty during out visit with server Brielle and an alert, quick moving bus staff, along with the rest of the staff and the place itself, make it impossible not to have a great time here. My big suggestion would be to have the Restaurant sign/verbiage more clear as it is not easily seen and one can get frustrated if they pass it while driving.

1600 N Cahuenga Blvd Hollywood, CA 90028

Monday – Friday, 11am-2am Saturday – Sunday, 6pm-2am More information at their website of www.citizensmith.com or by calling 323.461.5001
Reservations are highly recommended, especially on week-ends.