Los Angeles Dining

More Than a Beautiful Setting: Wine and Dining at Mediterraneo (0809)

 

 

More than a Beautiful Setting:  Wine and Dining at the New Mediterraneo

 

 

Call it the “new”  Mediterraneo or the former Village Inn in Westlake, the gracious little building in the midst of 17 acres of greenery has been “the” choice for special occasion dining since John L. Notter founded the Westlake Village Inn property in 1968.  

 

These days, Mediterraneo is filled with diners in casual clothing along with more formally dressed guests for the memorable cuisine, service and extraordinary wine list.  Everyone from the accommodating front desk hostess to the friendly bussers seem dedicated to make every meal a destination dining experience. 

 

A seat is front of the generous fireplace inside is grand;  so are seats on the side veranda above a gurgling creek surrounded with lush, almost tropical gardens.   

 

The Hispanic sensibility of Chef Albert Vasquez adds a spicy note to the elegant, contemporary Cal-Italian cuisine.  His seasonal, bistro menu uses as much fresh produce, herbs, seafood, poultry and meats as possible, many from local growers. 

 

The “farmer’s market fresh” meals mean that even after a dinner of three beautiful small courses with wine – and a spectacular dessert —  the feeling is healthy and happy, satiated and satisfied without feeling too full.

 

New on the menu is the Summer Corn Chowder ($7), a divine silky yet textured dish with a Mediterranean Crab Relish sitting on top, complete with tasty chunks of crab. This is the way to make a treasure out of fresh corn off the cob.

 

Another farm-fresh new dish is the chef’s take on the classic 1950’s cocktail party treat of bacon-wrapped asparagus, a dish that never lacks fans.  Here we see why in the Jumbo Grilled Asparagus Bruschetta ($9) with Lemon Herb vinaigrette, Sieved Egg and Crispy Prosciutto over Grilled Rustic Bread.   The asparagus are fat, the Prosciutto is lean and minus the often-oily bacon oil, while the egg and vinaigrette give it texture and contrast.

 

Crab Frittella ($14) is a take on another old favorite, crabcakes, that could be the new standard bearer: melt-in-the-mouth Lump Crab Cakes with a Warm Bean Salad and Salsa Mostaaza  

 

New on the pasta list is the Primavera ($16), Fresh Stamped Pasta, Eggplant, Zucchini, Garlic Pomodoro, Olives and Ricotta Cheese.  According to very professional and personable server, Max, this already has become a favorite.

 

In tune with the current revival of barbeque are the new populist Glazed Tuscan Baby Back Ribs ($26) and its gourmet counterpart, also new, the Rib Eye – long considered the “hot tip” among carnivores for taste and texture.   

 

Chef Albert’s own subtle Latin spin on dishes surprises and pleases the palate in every savory with a hint of heat.  He makes the simple Pollo Arrosto ($19) into a country memory.  Free Range Chicken is Slow Roasted in the Mediterraneo Wood Fire Oven that makes it succulent and juicy and even more tender with natural jus.  Sauteed Baby Spinach and crispy Fingerling potatoes add texture and interest in a simple European bistro manner: great ingredients left as great ingredients.

 

It is the same uncomplicated delight with the Primo Steak and Frites ($25), a grilled 10-ounce Prime Filet of Beef Served with interesting Rosemary Garlic Fries and a wholegrain Mustard and Roasted Garlic Aioli.      

 

But even for experienced diners, the Florentine Art ($8.5) grand dessert drew oohs and ahs all around, including those on a diet who wasted no time with their spoons.  White Chocolate Laced Chantilly Cream nestles in a Caramelized Almond Tuille, almonds dotting the crunchy crust.  Raspberries and blueberries are the final gorgeous summer flourish.  

 

And what better way is there to show off great cuisine than pairing it with the great wine selected by Sommelier Dan Margolis?   We know we are in for a treat from the major glass cutlery in which the wine is served.

 

The 2007 Melville "Estate" Santa Rita Hills Chardonnay enhanced the chicken dish.  Added to the poultry was the orange and Meyer lemon and honey essence of the wine on the palate.  

 

The full-bodied but not heavy 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley from Napa augmented the entire meal,.  Also tempting from the well thought out wine list were the “Naughty, racy” Meritage from the same area and “The” 2007 California Red Blend, Orin Swift, known as “The Prisoner,”  as well as the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Israel from the Golan.       

 

General Manager and Certified Sommelier Dan Margolis, 28, heads up Mediterraneo’s ambitious wine program, which includes wine flights and food pairings.  The award-winning wine selection includes new world varietals, wine makers’ creations, and classics.

 

Sommelier Margolis also makes it a mission to share unusual Sierra Nevada Beer Dinner featuring, such as Steve Grossman on August 7th ($50 including tax and gratuity).  This special event has been created to meet Steve Grossman, co-owner and Brewery Ambassador of Sierra Nevada Brewing Company. "We will be pouring the following beers for the Sierra Nevada dinner: Pale Ale, Summer, Torpedo, Kellerweis Hefeweizen and Porter.   

Mediterraneo, 32037 Agoura Road, Westlake Village, CA; 818-889-9105 (www.med-rest.com)