Travel/Destinations

Lodging and Dining in Paso Robles (Hotel Cheval) & Santa Barbara (Marina Beach Inn) via Amtrak(3/10)

     Lodging and Dining in Paso Robles (Hotel Cheval) & Santa Barbara (Marina Beach Inn) via Amtrak.  Dining features included Il Cortile and Thomas Hill Organics in Paso Robles and Moby Dick in Santa Barbara.

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     We started by taking the Amtrak train from LA heading up North. They have a few trains (older and newer models) including the Pacific Surfliner and the Starlight. I highly recommend business class as it is not that much more money and very much worth it. From snacks, excessive legroom, deep reclining seats, fewer passengers and easy bathroom access, it is the way to go.  This was our first experience on Amtrak and we were extremely satisfied. The staff was very friendly and the luxury of relaxing while watching the beautiful California coast was amazing. I have driven up North many times but have never experienced such incredible views as the train travels right along the ocean much more than the highway does.  There are many options to head up to Paso Robles but if possible, stay on the train as long as you can as it is a much more pleasant ride than the bus. The ride is very enjoyable and goes quickly. The train is not just a means of transportation it is a fun adventure, too. For more information, pricing and schedules, go to www.amtrak.com

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     We arrived in the beautiful wine town of Paso Robles and walked a couple blocks to Hotel Cheval (Cheval is French for horse), which was so convenient.  There are approximately 15-20 wine tasting rooms within walking distance from the hotel.  So unless you are interested in a certain winery/vineyard that you have to drive to, a car is not needed.  Hotel Cheval is a must on your visit to Paso Robles.  Only a few years old, this modern, luxurious hotel is top notch with flat screen TVs in the rooms, beautiful horse themed décor, friendly staff, free internet access (a lap top is provided in the lobby for guests), fruit and pastries at your door the morning you check out among many other amenities.  If you come in the summer, the hotel offers a horse & carriage to take you to your favorite destinations/restaurants around the town. The hotel is so quaint with a beautiful open common area courtyard where guests can gather around the two open fireplaces. Each room is impeccably decorated with a classy, understated horse theme. The hotel’s bar, The Pony Club is open to the public for drinks and has live music many weekends when there is not a local wine festival happening. There is a quiet library in the rear of the hotel. If you want to splurge, try one of the luxury rooms with a large modern bathroom with a separate shower and tub with sea salts. The room luxury rooms are spacious and have a huge bed with the best mattress that I have ever slept on. We would like to thank the full staff including Eva, Jane and Robert for making our visit a remarkable, memorable experience. The staff goes out of their way to help with anything from from directions, room service or information.  Hotel Cheval also has their own shuttle to pick you up at the train station even though it is only a few blocks away. If you are thinking of making a reservation during one of the Paso Robles festivals, it is encouraged to do so as far in advance as possible as they will sell out.  For availability, room options and pricing, go to www.hotelcheval.com

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      Our two dining recommendations are Il Cortile (opened just a few months) and Thomas Hill Organics.  The owner of Il Cortile, Carol MacDonal is very hospitable and married to head chef Santos MacDonal who delivers incredible dishes. A native of Honduras, Santos is a seasoned veteran. His resume includes Los Angeles restaurants Giorgio, Koi, Locanda del Lago and Via Veneto.  We started with some of the most tender grilled calamari and delectable Burrata cheese with marinated eggplant.  Primi (second dish) was next including homemade pasta.  Delicious choices from lobster ravioli, spaghetti with shrimp and garlic, and specialty seafood risotto made with olive oil instead of heavy cream.  The main course options included Filet Mignon, Veal Chop, Rack of Lamb, Grilled fish including Langoustines (mini lobsters), which were out of this world.  Pair your dinner with one of the local wines and end with their fresh dessert cannoli before settling into total gratification.  The open kitchen, nice decor, huge mirror and high ceilings give the image of a much bigger, spacious room.  Please visit their website to see more at www.ilcortileristorante.com

On our second night, we headed to Thomas Hill Organics where the menu changes daily. There are two reasons for that. One is that the classy, friendly owner Debbie Thomas, who is onsite every night to manage with her husband, Joe Thomas, own a local organic farm so fresh produce is brought in. Secondly is the amazing and creative 23 yr. old head chef Julie Simon from France. Don’t let her age fool you as she has worked at some top restaurants before and is now making food that you would never think of.  The grilled shrimp salad was sweet and spicy and had my mouth going crazy with delight. It was paired with a subtle local Pinot Grigio. Next the winter squash with Morbier Cheese, Pablano Chilis, pomegranates and pumpkin seed oil pizza came out. Who could have possibly come up with that combination? It was fabulous, by the way. Entrees options included local braised rabbit, duck tamale, rib eye, diver scallops and fresh fish of the night – seared sturgeon. The latter was my choice. It was accompanied by a ginger-carrot puree to die for, with a port reduction sauce and fresh mustard greens.  The potato/cauliflower gratin went perfectly along with the Paso Robles Chardonnay.  This is the only restaurant I have ever been to that offers half glass wine tastes so you can mix and match with each dish and not drink too much.  The restaurant has been open a few years now and they recently added an indoor section to go along with their patio so you can sit inside or out. Don’t miss the poached pears with almond shortbread and the divine chocolate soufflé for dessert.  More at www.thomashillorganic.com

     After a couple days and nights in Paso Robles, we hopped back on the train after a short bus ride to San Luis Obispo and headed South for a stop in Santa Barbara. Once again after departing the train, we walked to the Marina Beach Inn, a little less than 10 minutes away.  We were greeted by the nice staff and unloaded in our cute room, which had a flat screen TV, couch, and clean look.  Free internet (desk-top computer provided) in the lobby as well as an excellent continental breakfast with fresh pastries from a local bakery, fruit, juice and coffee every day.  Free bike rentals are also provided by the Marina Beach, located less than 2 blocks from the beach.  Even though you may see the word motel in the name, it is more like a charming Inn or bed and breakfast. It is very nice, upscale and has a lot to offer.  More at www.marinabeachmotel.com 

     With our one night in town, we took a nice 10-minute walk to Stearns Wharf and went to dinner at Moby Dick restaurant.  The manager Debbie Pech was incredibly hospitable and down to earth.  We watched the sunset from the immaculately crystal clean windows which gave views of the ocean and town while we indulged in some fabulous clam chowder and grilled crab cakes.  This establishment offers a variety of meats and seafood but we suggest the Alaskan King Crab for your main course. The website is under construction but call (805) 965-0549 for more information and reservations especially for the popular weekends and summer days.  The atmosphere included lots of wood décor, photos and a very open kitchen and three dining room areas, all with spectacular views. 220 Stearns Wharf Santa Barbara, CA 93101.

     All in all, I highly recommend this fantastic trip while relaxing on a great Amtrak train ride, lodging at Hotel Cheval (Paso Robles)  and Marina Beach Inn (Santa Barbara) and dining at Moby Dick restaurant, Il Cortile and Thomas Hill Organics while enjoying great wines and beautiful scenery.