Corny But True at Upper West Restaurant
Kale may be the current reigning king of home and restaurant menus, but corn remains the star of the show at Upper West Restaurant. Deserving of its name honoring the stylish Manhattan neighborhood, the very open, high energy avern is the perfect venue to stage and highlight food dishes. A beauty with enclosed glass patio, open beam ceilings and a stunning bar that runs the length of one entire wall, it is always full with the overflow spilling over into the common table in front of it.
A steady parade of waiters march out of the upscale tavern’s kitchen with what has become a signature item. Diners rave about it as “straightforward and honest,” but as Executive Chef Nick Shipp reveals, “the secret to why our guests love it is also their sheer curiosity of what’s in it. “ The answer is, a thoughtful lot.
Chef Nick tells the story, “When we opened we had a lot of requests for soup. Yellow corn is one of my favorites because of the texture, the mouth feel, the sweetness and the versatility of it. I’m from Texas, where corn is very prevalent, and where we have the southern influence but we also have a strong Native American influence, too. And what could be more Native American than corn?
The aromatic Corn Soup satisfies like a whole meal. It’s one that’s velvety smooth and goes down easy, and that’s because of the veggie stock base. Then there’s rich heavy cream and carrot for sweetness and depth. And then there’s white pepper, garlic, Tabasco and onion power to add another set of layers and make it pop. And this is not even the entire ingredient list.
And why the airy, fritter-like falafel? Falafel is code word for middle eastern on a menu, and here a swirl of sumac oil punctuates this. Nick: “Our menu is international, and this element with its garbanzo bean base is my homage to our Israeli partners. Folding black beans into it brings in the Texas theme, and more spices, such as yellow curry, cumin, coriander, smoked paprika, not only intermingle well with the oil but add a little mystery to it, and at the same time echoes the flavors of the soup.
Corn is also in demand in Chef Nick’s Whole Roasted Corn on the Cob with Cotija Cheese and a twist of Avocado Butter. And, as if to prove that vegetables rule, the second most popular dish on the menu is the earthy Caramelized Cauliflower with Sage, Apple & Parmesan – the chopped apple for texture and caramelization to make it creamy, and the seasonal Brussel Sprouts with Bacon & Roasted Peppers – a dish Nick had to “coax the flavor out of because Brussel Sprouts retain so much water.”
Chef Nick laughs when asked about making homey vegetables so popular. “I approach things with a certain simplicity, and good flavor is key. And if it’s healthy, too, then that’s great. “
Upper West Restaurant, 3321 W. Pico Blvd. (33rd Street), Santa Monica, CA. (310) 586-1111, www.theupperwest.com.